Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing-98 rodeo battery light and brake light - Isuzu Forums - Isuzu Enthusiasts Forum

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Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Sounds like the exact same issue 98HPasSport was having at one point. I checked fuses again, and switched relays around, nothing worked. Yes No. The alternator lighh tests out good at idle, which got me confused. Service Centers in. Are you considering a vehicle subscription service or did you previously consider one and decide against it?

Hunk naked pic. Battery Light Content

I change the dial from 2 to 4h or 4l and nothing happens. I've had my rodeo for about a year. Just a thought The check transmission light started blinking and the vehicle is struggling to shift into the fourth gear. Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing off on the soft shoulder of the road car got stuck put it down in low gear roveo and the gas Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing pulled it out of the mud drove it about 3 hattery 80 transmission light came on one pulled it rodo the middle of the road car was leaking transmission fluid struggling. Any help would be greatly appreciated! That's what I did and it hasn't done it flqshing me in a week. I would like to try and do it myself instead of spending who knows what for a shop to pull the fuse! I did this on mine and the light went on for a bit. My moms Corolla did that too. I am worried the dealership will rip me off! We have put it on a scanner and it says that the cad. What do I check next, I did not see anyone with similar problems. So, with conflicting information, I'm a bit confused on who is giving me the correct information. All radio station presets will also need to be reprogrammed.

Battery AND Brake light flashing

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  • Barnetr4 answered 7 years ago.
  • Volt meter reads normal, about 14 volts at idle and battery light is off, if you accelerate like climbing a slight hill or passing on the freeway the voltmeter drops to just under 12 volts and the battery light comes on, if driving at night you notice the lights also dim, back off the gas and everything goes back to normal.

Lawrence Hart lawrence Suspecting ECM or charging relay if I could find it. Any advice is appreciated, thanks! I ran the car with headlights on, battery slowly drained. When it got below 11 vdc car wouldn't start. It's not charging. Can anyone tell me where the charge relay is located? Can't find it, and there's no Haynes or Chiltons book for this model. Another guy said yes to this method also. Matt thanks for the help, and in the future I might need what you said here. Actually I just got my rig running right today and here's how.

After taking the alternator to O'Reilleys and having it check out "good", I put it back in the rig and still had the problem. So I tried something, I started the car then pulled a battery cable, the car shut off. If the alternator had been good, the car should've kept running on alternator power alone, but it didn't.

Anthony Kouttron salvagedcircuit. Worse case scenario, check if the protection diodes on the back of your alternator are broken. Sometimes they will be have black marks on them or have a tiny hole in them. If these diodes are dead, replace them or the alternator. Depending on your alternator, you may be able to find the rear housing with the protection diodes for sale at a parts store.

If you just want to replace the diodes you may have luck on digikey or mouser finding replacement diodes. There is a chance your alternator is fine. I just thought I would mention this if it helps you troubleshoot. Jimfixer jimfixer. This video shows removal Hope this helps. Matt moosebarton. I ran out of other options and replaced literally everything involved in charging the battery before finally finding a wiring diagram and cutting that wire. It worked. It fixed the charging issues in my Isuzu.

Since you have a Trooper, it'll probably be the same wiring diagram that I found I used one for a 99 Trooper. In the 98 and 99 Isuzu Trooper it's white with blue stripes. It plugs into the back of the alternator, then clips into the same color wire somewhere near the fuse box before going to the PCM.

Cutting it anywhere should do the trick. I'm not a mechanic and have limited mechanical skill. All I know is that it fixed my charging problems. I wondered if it hadn't caused some of the problem, and if I had seen it earlier I would've cleaned it and the plug it goes into and tried it, but I had already replaced the regulator and it worked good.

Help Translate iFixit. Back Answers Index. Lawrence Hart lawrence93 Rep: 1 2. View the answer I have this problem too Subscribed to new answers.

Is this a good question? Yes No. Voted Undo. Score 0. Yes, so far it starts and the lights and everything else works. Thanks for responding. Android Fix Kits. A new screen or battery is one kit away. Chosen Solution.

Was this answer helpful? Anthony Kouttron salvagedcircuit Rep: 4. Good luck! Score 2. Jimfixer jimfixer Rep: Matt moosebarton Rep: 13 1. Score 1. Add your answer Lawrence Hart will be eternally grateful. View Statistics:.

Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. He gets it to the shop and he drops the tank and right before he goes to swap it out he goes and runs the pump outside of the tank and says he heard metal filings in the pump that I might want to change the pump a while while he has the tank off because it doesn't sound too good. Howdy, Stranger! Good luck with your truck. Decarbonization cleans your engine in 30 minutes! I replaced my alternator and purchased a new battery. But in the same breath this is the dealer they indicate that the computer on the Rodeo "never goes bad" so the computer we need is now on a slow boat from Japan.

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing. Quick Links

ABS light came on so I started tapping my brakes to make sure I was not going to shut off. About that time, the brake light and battery light started flickering, coming on and off.

Ticking noise when lights were coming on and off. Stopped at a red light and car started idling high and when went to accelerate, the car was barely moving. Finally got it going to an acceptable rate. Turned car off and let it sit for four hours until help arrived and everything seemed fine when they restarted it. No lights, nothing. Drove it one hundred feet and had a little jerk in the movement of the vehicle and lost acceleration again with all lights back on.

Any suggestions? Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is. Was this answer helpful?

Must hold the brake down on drive instead of stopping in N at lights because its racing too much. Alternator lights shows HOT engine heats up and cuts off. Radiator full not over heated but engine is. The engine racing at idling indicates a fault with the idling system and it could be vacumn laekages or a faulty Idle Air Control valve.

I replaced my alternator and purchased a new battery. After installing everything my car starts up with no problem now but the brake and battery light is still on.

I am really at a lost and do not know what steps I need to take next in order to solve this problem. Underhood- main fuse I searched Autozone and didn't find anything. I think the solenoids or on the firewall by the brake booster. They might have unplugged it, pulled a vacuum hose loose, pinched one, or could be coincidence.

I have seen one post before where someone found the 4way vacuum line splitter its in the same area broken. That would have to probably be a salvage yard item, I dont think its available from the dealer. The problem could also be the computer not telling the solenoids to switch but I would think you would have good vacuum on one of the lines then. Did I trace them back right? Unless someone switched hoses around then no. Those would be breather tubes. One is for the front diff, dont know what the other one is for.

The vacuum switching valves are directly above that though. They are actually held there by the 4 way block I told you about that someone found broken on theirs.

Check it to make sure its ok, then check for vacuum on the line going into it. If its ok then the problem is in the valves, you can recheck for vacuum in 2wd and 4wd right at the valve and see if you loose vacuum there looks like the one with the blue plug is 2wd and grey plug is 4wd. If you dont have vacuum going into the 4 way block then start following it back to the intake manifold checking for vacuum till you find the problem part.

You should also check for vacuum on the vacuum tank wich is right above the axle actuator, if that line came loose you could be losing vacuum to everything. I forgot about it. Here is a diagram to help you with tracing things out.. Okay, I think I may have found it. I can't believe I missed it before, but when I had the truck on I could hear a loud sucking sound inside the engine bay.

I had seen this hose unattached before, but assumed it was nothing. I put my finger on it and got a lot of vacuum from it. Where does it go and how do I connect it? Is it supposed to go to the inlet manifold? What does that look like? That open line should plug into the end of the solenoid with the red plug.

Could definatly be a problem with the 4wd system not getting enough vacuum though. Thanks so much Gizmo! That was the problem. The stupid thing wasn't plugged in The blinking stopped, and my truck is running better now too! Thanks for all of your help. I work for Auto Trader, so if you ever need an ad run, I will happily do it for free. I know that's not much, let me know if there's anything I can do.

Not a problem. Glad I could help and got it solved. Havent used 4 wheel drive lately so I havent messed with it.. I'll let ya know how it turns out. I've got a bad actuator And I was hoping to take it to the beach next weekend. Anyone want to buy a '98 2WD V6 Rodeo? Any chance somebody can talk me through this problem with a 01 honda passport? The actuator in on the front axle, left side and has two vacuum lines and a wired plug attached.

New to the forum. Sorry for resurrecting an older thread, but this seems to be the thread everyone points to. My son has a Isuzu Rodeo 4x4 Automatic. When he first bought it the 4x4 did work fine, so hopefully nothing fundamentially wrong. After pressing in the 4WD button the light on the dash just blinks at a constant rate.

I'm guessing 2Hz blink rate. Pressing it again will stop the blinking. I have driven the vehicle for some distance with it depressed and no change. Vacuum is always present on the 2WD vaccum line and never on the 4WD vacuum line.

I traced back to the VSVs and the same things applies there, regardless of switch position. I have not gotten into that yet. Am I on the right track here? Let me know your thoughts. I'm hoping it is not the ECU that is faulty. His check engine light is not on and there are no fault codes found when I hooked up to the OBDC connector.

Is the 4WD Control Unit available new or would I be looking at a junkyard for a possible replacement? If new, anyone know the part number and approximate price for this unit?

Thanks Chad. I had a little time this morning to work on the problem before my son needed the Rodeo to go to work. I took out the passengers seat 4 - 14MM bolts with rear two under the covers and removed the rear console portion two phillips screws in console pocket. Pulled up and forward on the console and got to the Part number "little black box".

Two phillps screws hold it to the floor underneath the emergency brake handle. I'm still convinced this provides the power changeover for the Vacuum Switching Valves. I ordered the part from IsuzuParts. Should get it sometime next week. A couple of pictures for reference. I've got the same pronlem on my Its a 4wd manual and i was wondering is there a certain way to take the rubber tubbing off without tearing it.

I really don't want to have that happen. I've checked the actuator and it's fine but I noticed the vaccum solenoid on the firewall that works with the actuator is making a "psssssh" sound like it's leaking vaccum. I wonder if this could very well be the cause of my blinking 4WD indicator light? Sounds like you already found your problem.

Take a close look at the vacuum lines first though. There could be a small, unnoticeable leak in one of them. Yeah, I would just replace the vacuum lines and see if that fixes it.

Good luck and keep us posted! I got the solenoid but can't figure out how to get it off the brakcet to replace it. I replaced the solenoid on the firewall and nothing. I'm about at my wits end. None of this started happening until I had the front drive axles replaced along with the ball joints and the front shocks.

Hi, I have gotten my 4x4 to work finally, replaced the valves, BUT, it engages, and I have a steady light, but now, it blinks in 2 wheel drive. Works fine other than the blinking. What do I check next, I did not see anyone with similar problems.

Thanx guys Jon. I had my '03 diagnosed as needing the 4x4 control module replaced. So I bought one. The exact same part number as the one you have in the pictures here.

Isuzu Trooper Questions - volt meter and battery light - CarGurus

Car was driven for about four minutes with the AC on high this morning. Heard weird noise coming from engine and turned off radio and AC. Noise stopped when AC turned off. ABS light came on so I started tapping my brakes to make sure I was not going to shut off. About that time, the brake light and battery light started flickering, coming on and off. Ticking noise when lights were coming on and off. Stopped at a red light and car started idling high and when went to accelerate, the car was barely moving.

Finally got it going to an acceptable rate. Turned car off and let it sit for four hours until help arrived and everything seemed fine when they restarted it. No lights, nothing. Drove it one hundred feet and had a little jerk in the movement of the vehicle and lost acceleration again with all lights back on. Any suggestions? Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Was this answer helpful? Must hold the brake down on drive instead of stopping in N at lights because its racing too much. Alternator lights shows HOT engine heats up and cuts off. Radiator full not over heated but engine is. The engine racing at idling indicates a fault with the idling system and it could be vacumn laekages or a faulty Idle Air Control valve. I replaced my alternator and purchased a new battery.

After installing everything my car starts up with no problem now but the brake and battery light is still on. I am really at a lost and do not know what steps I need to take next in order to solve this problem. Underhood- main fuse Under dash fuses, 3 and 7. If all fuses are ok, you may have a problem with the engine control module which is located under thecenter of the dash and is what controls the alternator output.

Here is the wiring diagram for your vehicles charging system. ABS light, brake light and battery light on. Cold start. Do you. Hello, It sounds like it could be the AC compressor but lets start by checking the alternator which can cause the problem you have described.

Was this answer. Thanks for this post I had this problem and had to replace the alternator cost me To begin there are a few fuses to check. Here is the wiring diagram for your vehicles charging system Was this answer. Please login or register to post a reply. This Started In Do I Need To Purchase Ask a Car Question. It's Free!

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing

Isuzu rodeo battery light flashing