Annie and Elyse do a wonderful podcast about France and guide us through a city they love. This episode gives you an overview of Paris. We talk about staying in an apartment in one of the Paris Arrondissements and when you should come as well as how to get around and what to see first. Take some time to just enjoy the views of the river and the banks of this oldest part of the city. Go to the Orsay for the impressionists and for a museum of a manageable size.
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Annie and Elyse do a wonderful podcast about France and guide us through a city they love. This episode gives you an overview of Paris. We talk about staying in an apartment in one of the Paris Arrondissements and when you should come as well as how to get around and what to see first.
Take some time to just enjoy the views of the river and the banks of this oldest part of the city. Go to the Orsay for the impressionists and for a museum of a manageable size. Go to the Orangerie to see the Water Lilies in a building designed by the artist Monet. Take the time to explore the city on foot. We talk about expensive shopping streets and Annie would recommend some of the open air markets and Elyse the square in front of the Centre Pompidou.
We head up to the neighborhood of Montmartre with its tourist neighborhoods, French film stars, quiet back streets and views of the city. Today the Amateur Traveler talks about art museums and cathedrals and pastries as we go to Paris, France. They do, what I will have to say, is a wonderful podcast about France. If you are going to France, you need to listen to Annie and Elyse. So welcome to the show. Why should someone go to Paris?
Just that alone means you should visit Paris. I think a lot of people have on their list of things to do in Paris the Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, and probably just that ten minute dash into see the Mona Lisa, which we can talk about.
What would you recommend for a week to two weeks in Paris and the surrounding area? Elyse : Two weeks is a long time, I would say that two weeks is enough time do a really good job of visiting all kinds of places that are known and lesser known in Paris but also time to go outside. Chris : And you mentioned renting an apartment. If I wanted to be a temporary Parisian, which district, which arrondissements would you recommend would be a great place to discover Paris?
Elyse : As opposed to the 8th and 9th which are on the north side, west of The Louvre, and which are a bit posher, maybe even a lot. And probably, although Paris is expensive in any event, probably a lot easier to find places than in some of the other neighborhoods. Chris : Okay. They have decent breads and pastries all over the country, even in airports. I would try them. You have to be able to run about 20 miles a day afterwards.
I have my pastry now, I go outside and what am I going to see first, what site should I go to? Elyse : It depends on how much time you have in Paris. Elyse : Watch the boats go by, look at the buildings on both sides of the river, walk along the banks of the river, both sides are relatively easy to do, on the south side a little bit easier. Take in the skyline which is a low skyline but has beautiful architecture.
Annie : It also depends on the weather and you happen to visit. So I could spend a whole day in Notre Dame climbing the tower, taking pictures from all different angles. I also enjoy taking pictures of disturbing church art. And they start in the dead center where Ile de la Cite is, which is number one. And it spirals out like a snail form there. You know, if you are in the one, two, three, four, and five, you are in the oldest part of the city and it really works its way that way around.
The Ile de la Cite, Notre Dame, that part is in fact the very oldest part of the city. Elyse : A tiny little island in the Seine actually. You can go to any part of the island, which is really, really tiny, you look out and you see other neighborhoods that are also very beautiful and historical. They make stops, you can get off, you can visit neighborhoods, they give you a little paper that shows you where their stops are.
And then you can get back on later on and you can come back and use it again the next day. Elyse : I think it is. Chris : The third option, of course, would be renting a car, which I would highly recommend against. Chris : Right. But yes, I would not drive in Paris. For one thing, the lines went away on the road and then I recall one time we took an hour to get from basically down the length of the Champs-Elysees from The Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe and it was at at night.
So the traffic can be fairly. Elyse : I was there two weeks ago and it took us one hour to get from somewhere in the middle of the 9th just out to one of the exits.
So it really is not worth trying to drive inside Paris. Annie : Yeah. I think buses, if you have mobility issues, are better. And I bet you could guess what my first favorite is. They can be overwhelming at times. Chris : Which is always stunning to me as popular as it is now to think about the fact that they wanted to tear it down, but fortunately they did not. And you guessed Sainte-Chapelle so we should mention just a little bit.
Chris : Beautiful, high, blue is the color that just comes to mind with Sainte-Chapelle. Where to next, how about the museums?
Annie : And I love impressionist and post-impressionist art. This is my background, I studied to be an artist, I studied to be an art historian. You put me in a museum and I just start waving my arms around, literally. Or same with the seventh, which is a little further west.
Elyse : Yeah. The left bank is a designation I think from the early 20th century in the time of people like Hemingway and all of those people. And it really refers to the bohemian part of what was, at that time, Paris.
And Orsay is really just sort of over the line but it is in fact practically right across the river from The Louvre, you can see one from the other. And you can go literally by foot or by bicycle from one to the other without any problem. Chris : Now, so, Annie, I think your pick was the Orsay, and the old train building too, we should say. But it also has one of the finest collections in the world of Egyptian art, of ancient Greek art, of Roman statuary, to die for in beauty.
It has many, many, many different sections so in my opinion it really has something for everyone. And also, I appreciated from an art historical point of view but also from the point of view of being a guide who takes people to museums.
For instance, in the Orsay Museum you cannot take photographs and they will get on your case about that. Chris : Oh really? If you have your flash on they will say something. You can have your kids do funny poses in front of the statues and all that, which I get a kick out of that so I do that. But there is a huge difference in the attitude of the museums; you feel it when you go in.
And I would underline what you said about the statuary. I think we went in like so many naive Americans wanting to see the Mona Lisa, La Joconde, and being disappointed by how small it is, how thick the glass was in front of it, and how big the crowds were. Instead, take the picture of the people looking at the Mona Lisa. Elyse : It is an experience, Annie and I have joked about it.
Chris : Because of that, I recommend, I think the third museum that I would throw in, which is the opposite experience would be the Orangerie. Elyse : So you have beautiful galleries down below with beautiful painting and they have a temporary exhibit space. I was there in the fall and it was an exhibit of the work of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, it was absolutely fabulous as an exhibit.
So if people are claustrophobic in terms of dealing with big, big, big museums, that is actually a small museum that offers some real jewels in it.
Elyse :. And he worked in natural light and he worked with a brush on a stick that was about six feet long and that is why he developed this technique of things simply sort of dissolving with beautiful pieces of color. And of course what he was doing was reproducing the same work he always did, his flowers, his beautiful gardens and everything. But it developed into this magnificent kind of semi-abstract kind of painting. So the rotunda in the Orangerie was actually designed for that purpose.
And this one you walk in and there are three painting maybe in a room but they take up the entire walls. Elyse : Not so much, so if you try and cross 12 lanes of cars you are actually committing suicide. Chris : And in the center of the Place de la Concorde, of course the big Egyptian obelisk with the hieroglyphics on it from Cleopatra. Chris : Although that does bring up the issue of shopping. So the first time I was in Paris we were there with a friend who had never been there also but he went to shop, and in fact brought a suitcase full of old clothes he was planning on throwing out just to go shopping.
And so I know that that is a popular activity there. If you wanted to bring back something smaller than the obelisk in your suitcase , where would you go to shop in Paris?
Elyse : There are two philosophies of shopping in Paris. Elyse : Galeries Lafayette, or even, if you have a lot of money, Bon Marche, which is on the other side of the river. Elyse : Ironically, yes. But personally I grew up in New York and I have developed an allergy to department stores.
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